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Stormy Days – The Encounter of a Hurricane

Hurricane.  

As surfers, we get excited when we hear that word. Because to us, it means a swell may be coming. We start to dream of amazing surf conditions and we get stoked on those thoughts.  

Rarely though do we picture the destruction that can also come along with a hurricane. We don’t think about the chaos and despair it can create in the towns it hits. Or how it can leave a place torn down and flooded.  

With your hurricane, I behaved that same way. It deceived me at first. Starting out deep in the ocean, never revealing its true trajectory until much later. I was left loving the pre storm swell, picturing nothing but those perfect waves to come. 

Then, your storm got closer and I could start feeling the change in the ocean. It was no longer paradise. The sky started to become dark, the wind started to pick up, and the ocean started getting choppy. But out there in the middle of it, I couldn’t see the magnitude of what was about to hit me. I was still seeing great waves coming on the horizon. I still wanted to ride those waves, so I stayed in the water.  

But out there in the middle of it, I couldn’t see the magnitude of what was about to hit me. I was still seeing great waves coming on the horizon. I still wanted to ride those waves, so I stayed in the water.  

Eventually, you came in full force. Your winds were powerful, your currents were out of control, and your waves were big and scary. I got caught in the impact zone not knowing how to get out. I was stuck in place, unable to go anywhere.  

Your waves kept coming at shorter intervals and every time I thought I had made it out,  there was a bigger wave coming. Each wave kept me held under for longer periods of time, weakening my strength to the point where I could no longer fight back. I found it hard to breathe and felt as if I were drowning. 

Thankfully, I was able to find a way out of your storm. I was able to see the light. I swam harder and you were no longer able to keep me held under. I made it back to the shore where I was finally able to breathe again. And from there, I was able to take in the true destruction you left in your wake.  

Your hurricane knocked me down to my lowest, left my heart torn to pieces, and flooded me with insecurities. But just like a town that has been devastated by a hurricane, I had a community of people to help me put the pieces back together. Built back stronger, much stronger, than before. 

Now, what’s left is that beautiful post-hurricane swell. The ocean is calm and peaceful again. Glassy sets are coming and I can ride those waves without having to keep looking back in fear of those monstrous waves of yours. There is no more fear or crying caused by your storm. I can laugh again and love surrounds me everywhere. I can just be happy.  

Your hurricane, it changed my life. I had never encountered a storm like yours before. It wasn’t all destruction but I can only hope that your hurricane will turn into a peaceful breeze. I can only hope that it doesn’t cause any more damage anywhere else.

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