There are many days like this, many surf sessions that have me questioning whether to continue the long road to becoming an intermediate, never mind an experienced surfer. Could I not just be satisfied with floating in no-man’s land, somewhere between beginner and intermediate?
Stretching across the two countries, the Basque Country is a surfing paradise. There are countless fun breaks, from the world famous Mundaka River Mouth in Spain to the barrels of Hossegor, France.
Despite its romantic and comforting eating ritual of sitting by the beach after a routine of exercise to savour a bowl of refreshing cream, it’s the fruit’s alleged nutritional values that backup its commercial and social popularity, and what causes most polemic. The main controversy about açai is regarding its supposedly most important health attribute: the idea that it possesses high antioxidant capacity.
This week started with a day trip to Nusa Lembongan, an Island Southeast of Bali and a fine place to relax. Earlier that morning, before the sun was awake, we checked out Komune, a stylish beachfront resort with a nice break out front. The waves were decent enough but nothing I could surf as I’m little, so I sat on the beach with Aaron and watched Luke surf all the waves like some sad puppy.
The fog, the rain and the rich greens embrace us with a unique ambiance, one unique to most surf destinations. With a background in photography, I almost immediately felt as though I didn’t have an option: I needed to put on some fins, swim out with my friends, and bring the same exposure the male surfers were getting to the unique female surf community of Tofino.
The task at hand is simple; travel to Bali, Thailand and Vietnam alone for six weeks. Get uncomfortable, quote Eat, Pray, Love, make new friends, and be happy. The last bit being the most important. It’s not easy to do the things we want to do, to do what makes us truly happy. I was ready to take action.
When I first arrived to the West Coast, like so many, the beauty of the place amazed me. It was like nothing I’ve seen before. On the beach or in the forest, this place will make you feel lucky. This end of the road on Vancouver Island has something special. Unique.
Deciding that even if there was little or no surf, Norway was worth seeing, I booked a flight ticket to Europe. Trying to keep my expectation low and too lazy for research, I had a feeling I was about to embark on an unforgettable adventure.
While shooting river surfing in the Saint-Lawrence River, we realized how mysterious the connection between human and nature was. They were right—nature is a poetic subject.
We’re all using the golden hour as our secret weapon, either for catching waves by ourselves or capturing the perfect light with our camera. We know how powerful it is to be in the ocean when the sun is slowly rising or setting in the sky.
After a month in Bali, we decided it was time to explore some places a little less civilised. The boys were itching for a new playground and Sumbawa seemed like the perfect place.
On the descent down the hill into Muriwai, we pull over to the side of the road, seeing the lines of swell filtering into the bay, helping to determine which breaks are picking up the most of it. The sun has already started to drop beneath the clouds hinting that time is not on our side.
Part of the life of a water photographer is to find inspiration at any time of the year, even when waves are flat and that there is no surfers around.
Chas Smith, co-founder of BeachGrit!, author of Welcome To Paradise, Now Go To Hell & surf journalist, recently started writing about Yemen.I hope his journey is going to inspire more than a few to give a chance to a country that got judged way too hard, way too quick. And don’t worry—it involves surfing too.
A new-ish couple, Ernie (name has been changed to protect the innocent) and I decided to go to Kauai in September to surf and work on our tans. A shared love of surfing and sunshine was largely the reason we’d wound up together, and it seemed like a great idea.
It's not often anyone pairs surfing with falling snow, iced over beards, 5-4mm wetsuits and rocky lake shorelines but when it comes to this crew, it's the first things that come to mind. If you're ever curious enough to meet one of these people...take a drive up the North Shore of Minnesota when the winds are strong and they hail from the East by North East.
In France, there are destinations that are essential for surfing: Biarritz is one of them. Luckily for me, I was able to go there for three weeks.
Jeremie and I head down to La Vague à Guy for a nice morning session before starting a busy work day. For a very long time, I’ve wanted to create a special black and white series of river surfing and with the pretty overcast weather, it was the perfect opportunity to make my vision become reality.
Just a few days ago, moving to San Diego was nothing but a dream. In just one day, that dream became a reality.
Enticed by the multitude of possible adventures, Sri Lanka was the obvious destination for two people with an interest for just about everything. A land rich with culture and scenic attractions, the two months to come would undoubtedly be nothing short of incredible. As photographers, surfers, divers, hikers and yogis, there was a lot of ground to be covered, people to meet and places to see.
I'd heard tales of the beauty of Mauritius, seen photos, but pictures never do a place justice until you experience it for yourself.Mountains were shrouded in a light dreary mist, ones you only see in magazines. Flowing rivers created a green landscape so lush you thought you’d stepped back in time to the Jurassic Age. Roads were empty.
A Salty Friendship - Life is crazy sometimes. A few weeks ago I organized a contest to win two of my photographs, as a way to thank the people who follow me on Facebook. The winner of this contest ended up being a wedding photographer who lives near me in France.
About a month ago I decided to go to Nicaragua on a solo trip to focus on my surf photography.From being in cold water and thick neoprene suits in Canada, I needed a small escape to the tropics to get me through the long gloomy months.
I've been coming to Joshua Tree for years now, lucky enough to have an uncle with a cabin close to the entrance of the Joshua Tree National Park. Like a coyote howling to the moon, something instinctual happens out here and to this day I am still trying to find the words.
Surfing the Great Lakes has always been something that fascinated us and meeting Antonio, the Founder of Surf the Greats, was the perfect excuse for us to finally discover this unique surf community.
In the English Garden, one of the largest parks of Munich, you can find the dream of every surfer that lives in Germany—the Eisbach Wave. Discover the commitment of these surfers as well as beautiful photos from this well-known river wave.
After returning home from Great Barrier, life on the mainland is somewhat overwhelming and hard to get back to. To forget about it, we decided to rent a bach up north and on the Friday of a long weekend, we head north to a place called Mangawhai.
An agricultural outpost was not what we had in mind when we booked flights to the seemingly exotic islands of the Azores. We had expected a colourful, unusual, breath-taking experience.
Driving down the pacific coast always been something we idealized and dreamed of, trying to seek a distraction-free life that turns only around the sea. Even if reality hits, this trip to Baja is exactly what a surf exploration should looks like.
Being South African means that you are sandwiched between the Eastern Indian Ocean and the Western Atlantic. Seeking to find an answer to the raging internal debate of the country over which has the better surf, we packed our things and headed East to begin the adventure.