I watched John John Florence film yesterday.
It was awesome.
But, I still think I failed my job as someone that has a surf blog. I should have been in Brazil. California. Hawaii. Or even Japan. I should have been to one of these locations, ready for the World Premiere. Ready for the crowds, the cheering, the dream. I should have been somewhere close to the ocean, where the waves aren’t just in your dreams and where you can say, without actually lying, that you belong there. But I wasn’t, and I was late. I watched the film two days later than the world premiere, but it’s better than not watching it at all, though.
In Montreal, it was a sad, but still a beautiful night. There were around 200 surfers, with their mind wandering about places they could be at. Places they have left. A vision of past trips. A goal to leave again. It was a sad night for surfers, as the ocean was far. As for the river, the only place we were able to call our home in that city, was being polluted by our government. We were trapped. Trapped in a room watching a movie that everyone called ‘’the best of the years’’ and we weren’t able to do anything about it. We couldn’t surf. Too broke to travel for certain. Too scared to leave for others. Or even, just too captured in a routine that isn’t supposed to be ours. A routine we’re not happy about.
‘’I love watching surf film, but I hate it in a way. It just makes me wants to quit my job and go on a trip‘’, said my friend after watching the new gem that John John offered us. It’s good to see that I am not the only one thinking that way. Why are we still here?
I would like to thank John John for destroying my happiness back home.
Nah, just kidding. Watching his film just motivated me to work harder to be able to leave the place I don’t belong to. Why don’t you do the same?
John John is considered one of the best surfers of our era at the moment, and we can understand why. He is a human, like you and me. He breathes. He eats. He enjoys taking pictures. He loves to ride a bike. But mostly, he loves to surf. For us, his life may seem like an ideal. Something we all want. But at the end of the day, it’s all about hard work. That’s what his movie is also about if you haven’t seen it.
It may seem hard to get it when you watch him travel through different countries, different landscapes, and different waves. You may also feel some jealousy when you see him understand the ocean and surf it in a way that no one else does. Maybe you blame him because he got the chance to travel to places you always wanted to try but were too scared. Australia. Africa. A secret place (France?). And, the famous place where all incredible pros are from, Hawaii. But hey, he is not alone. He carefully selected some of the best surfers (which are also his friends) to come to those destinations and surf with him. Surfing is great, but surfing with a couple of buddies is way more fun. After three years of travels, adventures, fun trips as tough ones, we discovered that John John was way more than just really talented. He is a human, like us. He is humble as he didn’t want to talk about the film while filming it, and also because he decided to get his friends involved in the movie. He grew up in Hawaii with his brothers and his mom, which she raised alone. He has been surfing since being a kid, and he has been helped by a few pro surfers on the island. He’s lucky, ok. But he’s born for the ocean, and since he’s alive, that’s where he belongs.
Only a few have the chance to know what they want to do with their life while they are young. And while watching his new film, dreaming of those places, and telling myself he’s one of the best surfers at the moment, I also told myself, why don’t we all do this? Find where we belong, what we are the best at, and do it. Live fully. Without thinking.
View from a blue moon, in the end, was also a reminder that we’re alive. Tomorrow, we may die. We shall stop thinking, and go ahead. Not tomorrow, not in one year. Right now.
*Thanks to Surf Expedition and Hurley for the party!