Abruptly, I stopped answering to my emails. It felt good, like a detox. I didn’t even need to do a way-too-expensive juice detox, I just had to chill. Then, I stopped writing articles. Surfing was still on my mind, 24/7, but time was missing. Like all common mortals, reality stroke and stole all my energy.
I understand, you must be mad. You feel like we gave up on you, surfers in search of waves but stuck in a city. You had to read all the other rad surf magazines that exist in the world, but not ours. Cause we were way too busy with real life boring occupations instead of writing you an article about our wish to be somewhere else. Like Bali or something. Accept our most honest apologies for the inconvenience. It won’t happen again, unless we have another crisis about what the hell is going on with our life.
You know, I am just a regular kid like you. I act like I am 30, but I am so young that it scares me. I have a normal routine, eat salads even though I crave for In-N-Out (like, all the time), and I pretend to care about news on TV while all I actually care about is the next time I will go surfing. I wake up every morning for work, which is a job that doesn’t involve surfing, only to be able to buy myself an expensive wetsuit for winter surfing. The worst part is that I hate wetsuits. I can’t stand wearing one. Or I am also working because I know soon I will be at school, buying ten espressos a day and being broke like crazy. Even though we try to forget reality way too often, reality is there, and when it hit us, it hurts. Like a Rocky Balboa kind of punch. You can imagine the violence.
I am like you. It sucks, I know. We are not any cool pro surfers that can allow ourselves to surf every day until the last ray of sunshine. We have bills to pay. Money to make. Adventures to prepare. And especially, a real life job that probably sucks too. We are not famous, and honestly, I am happy I’m not. I can eat a ton of chocolate and hide in my bed anytime I want while pretending I am not an adult, and it feels good.
+1 point to being a normal human being. And you know what? We are passionate, and I love that feeling that you get when you realize that you need to fight for something. The fire, the hard work, the love. I love to wake up in the morning feeling like I need to do something new today. I love being in my twenties and freaking out over the future. Not knowing what I want in my life except writing about how the waves are. And especially, having to challenge myself every day when writing because my first language is not even English. And sometimes, I tell myself I should have written in French from the start. Way easier, less criticism, but way less fun. Nothing worth it is easy, right?
So anyway, we are back.
I know Monster Children may be more artsy than us and What Youth way cooler than us, plus Surfer and Surfing way specific on everything than Nouvelle Vague, but hey, who cares? We are all different. And I love that. And I just love to write. So read us. Or don’t. Do what you want. Eat In-N-Out, quit your job that you hate and go surf. Ignore Nouvelle Vague and go surf instead if it makes you feel happy. But share the stoke, like us.