We always have too many excuses to stop us from being the best that we can.
We say it’s tough and we complain a lot. Always. We have the time to try and do something extraordinary, but we don’t. We are better in our comfort and we won’t get out: we don’t want anything to change. We are scared that if we try and we end up failing, that may destroy us. We are scared of feeling our body aches while we walk or scared of being stuck at sea under a wave that seems like never ending. What we do is dangerous. We live by a rule of security while we could live about our deepest wishes. And the things is, we all do this. We suck. We always find excuses and stay there playing behind our computer waiting until something happen or someone give us an opportunity. We wait for our dreams. We wait for perfect love. We wait for perfect moments. We wait until it’s too late, but it doesn’t work that way. The world hasn’t been shaped to be controlled by fate. You are your own fate, you are your own luck and they are the future.
They - the people that has a passion for the sea and that no matter how bad the storm is in their life, they still seek the salty taste on their lips and the feeling of their heart beating in their chest. They haven’t had the chance to walk as they wish, to run whenever they wanted to and even, to take people they love in their arms. They - these people that are from all over the world, that speak different languages, live by different cultures and go through different political issues. They -these people we don’t know, may have been through accidents, through malady, or simply hereditary. They are strong.
The first-ever ISA World Adaptive Surfing Championship will be happening in La Jolla, California in September 24-27. It’s funny how when I go in the ocean, I think it’s hard. A two hour session with my full body is something painful. Beginner, ok, but still. My body is in perfect condition, and I think it’s hard. Then, I see through internet that some people are so hooked to the sport of surfing that they still go in the water no matter what happened. Their body has been hurt and they probably have spent more time at the hospital that what you ever did, and then you see them in the sea, shredding a wave and having a blast. They are glad to be there. They feel alive, because they are. They’ve been through difficulties, but they never actually gave up, like other people would have done. They are such an inspiration for the world and they are a real proof of courage. The courage isn’t to give up because bad things happened to you, this is to change the way we see it – to work towards what you want. And you know, we could think of Bethany Hamilton when she was a teenager and abruptly lost one of her arm while she faced a shark in the lineup. Or we could talk about Fabrizio Passeti that recently started surfing again and now work towards his project to surf the most he can. Or we could talk about Alfonso Mendoza that catch waves while he doesn’t have legs. Not even one. There are so many of them and it’s an inspiration.
So, yea, Kelly Slater did an air that wasn’t too encouraged by the judges at the Trestles Hurley Pro. And, ok, Luke Davis now decided to be a free surfer. But can we just forget all this a second and think of the reason why we are waking every morning before dawn to go push ourselves in the water? There is a reason, and as a unique person, I would not be able to explain why. Just remember that reason, and go. Push yourself. No matter what’s in your life.
Medina also surfed at Trestles with a Brazilian kid that was born with no legs neither arms. There is more happening than just the contests.