There is a lack of something in modern days, and of course we can talk about the lack of human connection and go all philosophical and stuff, but I rather skip that part. Anyway, what I am talking to you about is way more important. Documentaries. There is a lack of people watching documentaries and taking the time to really watch it instead of being on their phone during half of it. I would be honest, I am always on my phone while I watch something. But still. Everyone wants to be fast and never take the time to do anything. We have two minute surf edits or ten minutes surf films, but what is happening out of the water?
The humans living in a place are the ones that shaped the culture and still do. They are the one that allows you to surf these waves, so why don't we see them. What's their story, where are they from, what's their culture and what do they believe in. This is why I closed my phone to watch Made in Australia, a short doc made by Matt Payne about that country and in his new episodes, talking about the Boardriders Clubs.
You should watch it because of two things: anyone that are breathing right now dreamed at least once to go to that country. And, Noa Deane is in the doc. We all like him, no?